In the wake of the storm: Fall tree care and planting

Editor's Note: This article is the third in a series on storm response and recovery efforts

One of the sure signs of autumn is colorful fall foliage in the landscape as woody plants prepare for winter. Here are some things that can be done to help prepare your trees for the long season ahead:

1. PLANT. Yes, fall is a great time to plant trees. Cooler temperatures enable plants to acclimate to a new home without the stress of high air and soil temperatures. While selection at nurseries may be limited, trees are often on sale in the fall. Make choices that are suitable for North Dakota's alkaline soils – don't buy something just because it sounds like a good deal. Trees are a great investment! For winter interest, choose a tree with interesting bark or fruit that hangs on the tree beyond fall. Pick up a list of recommended trees at New Rockford City Hall. Contact ND One Call to locate underground utilities prior to digging. (www.ndonecall.com or call 811).

2. PLANT PROPERLY (see diagram) One of the most common planting mistakes is planting too deeply. Identify the trunk flare – the point at which the trunk expands at the base of the tree. This point should be partially visible after the tree has been planted. Dig a shallow, broad planting hole. Holes should be 2 to 3 times wider than the root ball, but only as deep as the root ball. Digging a broad planting pit breaks up the surrounding soil and provides newly emerging tree roots room to expand. Remove the containers or cut away the wire basket. Straighten, cut or remove any circling roots. Place the tree at the proper height in the planting hole. Make sure the tree is straight and fill the hole gently but firmly. Pack the soil to eliminate air pockets that may dry out roots. The majority of a tree's roots develop in the top 12 inches of soil (you may have been surprised by the shallow root balls of large trees uprooted in the July 8 storm). If a tree is planted too deep, new roots will have difficulty developing because of a lack of oxygen. Yes, roots need oxygen! Trees that are planted too deeply may survive but will not thrive.

3. MULCH newly planted trees with organic matter to conserve moisture, moderate soil temperature extremes, and reduce grass and weed competition. Use the mulch 3-3-3 formula: A 3-foot mulch ring keeps mowers and deadly weed trimmers away from tender bark on young trees. An ideal mulch layer is 3 inches deep. Any deeper will cause problems with oxygen and moisture levels. Keep mulch 3 inches away from the trunk to reduce moist bark conditions and to prevent decay.

4. DON'T FERTILIZE newly planted trees, and only apply slow-release fertilizers on established trees. Applications of nitrogen will encourage new tree growth, which won't have a chance to harden off before winter. If you're fertilizing your lawn, you're also fertilizing any trees nearby. Trees have a root spread equal to or greater than the height of the tree.

5. WRAP newly planted trees with brown kraft paper, starting at ground level and working your way up the tree to the first branch. White plastic tubing can also be used. This protects young trees from winter sunscald on the southwest exposure of the trunk, and will also deter rodents from feeding on the bark. Mice will feed on bark beneath the snow, while rabbits can damage trunks above the snow line. Trees most susceptible include fruit trees, mountain ash, honey locust, maples and linden. Tree wraps should be removed in the spring.

6. WATER trees before freeze-up. Tree roots remain active until soil temperatures dip below 40 degrees. Watering is especially beneficial for evergreens, which transpire tiny amounts of moisture through their needles throughout the winter months. Water is the best remedy for trees recovering from storm damage.

7. HERBICIDE APPLICATIONS should be done with caution around trees. While herbicides are most effective on lawns in the fall, some herbicides can be detrimental to tree roots, especially with repeat applications. Spot spray, if possible. Learn to tolerate a few weeds. READ the label.

8. PRUNING is best done when trees are dormant, so leave that task until early spring. Routine pruning in early spring before buds swell enables the tree to naturally seal off pruning wounds most effectively. Broken branches should be properly pruned as soon as they are noticed, and there are many trees in New Rockford that still require corrective pruning following the July 8 storm. Don't use pruning sealer, tar or paint on any tree cuts or wounds. A proper pruning cut doesn't require sealer, and no amount of sealer can fix a bad pruning cut.

9. FIREWOOD For those who burn wood, fall is a popular time to harvest and cut firewood, or purchase it from a seller. Keep invasive pests away by purchasing or harvesting firewood locally. Transport of infested firewood is most likely how emerald ash borer will make its way to North Dakota. Don't move firewood. Protect North Dakota's trees!

Links for tips on planting, pruning, and maintaining trees: http://treesaregood.org/treeowner/treeownerinformation.aspx

Information on NDSU Woody Plant Improvement program and NDSU releases:https://www.ag.ndsu.edu/plantsciences/research/woody-plants